[Penang] Wan Dao Tou 湾岛头叻沙 Assam Laksa in Penang looks like your typical Malaysian eatery, permanently busy and unpretentious, with simple tables and stools to sit and eat on.
Known for its delicious Assam Laksa noodle soup (RM6.50 for small, RM7.50 for large), the third-generation owners of the place prepare the dish based on a 50-year-old recipe conceived by their grandparents.
It used to be located near the Bagan Jermal roundabout near Sunrise Towers.
They also received a Bib Gourmand in the Michelin Guide Penang.
For those of you who are new to Assam Laksa, its fame lies in the depth of flavours that the bowl of fish-noodle soup promises with every spoonful.
An integral part of the Nyonya cuisine, it is a testament to Chinese and Malaysian culinary traditions.
The Wan Dao Tou sisters who currently helm the stall, keep in mind the original boldness of the recipe but with layered synchronisation among the ingredients.
The assam (tamarind) is vital to the base, furnishing the much-adored piquancy to the red broth.
After adding the ingredients to the bowl, the sisters pour the broth into it from a large container.
Then, they run the broth back into the container and repeat this process a couple more times.
This transference perhaps helps to keep warmth and flavours more even throughout.
Served in a disposable ware, some diner may find the broth on the sweeter and light side. I thought it would have been much better on the mouthfeel with a little more body or mackerel.
The thick rice noodles were smooth and chewy.
The stall also serves up other sides such as Spring Roll (RM1.50 per pc, min 2 pcs), Kuih Talam (RM4.60 for 4 pcs), Chai Kuih (RM1.50 per pc), and Kuih Kosui (RM4.60 for 10 pcs).
Perhaps the weakest link of what I tried, the Spring Rolls sounded promising but wasn’t as crispy – a result of being left in the container for a while.
Wan Dao Tou does serve a credible version of Assam Laksa which is different from the rest – worth a try if you are in the vicinity.
Wan Dao Tou Assam Laksa
1, Jalan Gottlieb, George Town, 10350 George Town, Pulau Pinang, Malaysia
Opening Hours: 11am – 5pm (Tues – Sun), Closed Mon
Google Maps – Wan Dao Tou Assam Laksa
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